Rolex Submariner 124060 vs 114060: The

Quick Questions

How does the new Rolex Submariner 124060 differ from the outgoing 114060?
What makes the Caliber 3230 movement a significant upgrade over the 3130?
Is the 41mm case size a radical departure for the Submariner line?
Why are the slimmer lugs on the 124060 a key improvement for wearability?
Where can you spot the subtle dial change that identifies the 124060?

In the world of haute horology, the release of a new Submariner is a landmark event. The Rolex Submariner No-Date reference 124060 has finally arrived, taking over from the beloved 114060 that has been a staple since 2012. As with any Rolex update, the changes are evolutionary rather than revolutionary, but they are nonetheless significant for enthusiasts and collectors alike.

A New Heart: The Caliber 3230

The most substantial transformation lies beneath the dial. The 124060 is powered by the brand-new Caliber 3230, a self-winding mechanical movement that succeeds the older Caliber 3130 found in the 114060. This modern calibre brings with it a host of improvements, including a 70-hour power reserve, a significant jump from the 48 hours of its predecessor. The 3230 also incorporates Rolex's patented Chronergy escapement, which enhances efficiency and reliability, along with the Paraflex shock absorbers for improved resistance to impacts. These mechanical upgrades ensure that the 124060 isn't just a cosmetic refresh but a truly next-generation timepiece.

Case Dimensions: Slightly Larger, But Wears Smaller

In a move that has sparked much discussion, Rolex has increased the case diameter from 40mm to 41mm. On paper, this might suggest a bulkier watch, but the design team has cleverly slimmed down the lugs, making the 124060 wear similarly, if not more comfortably, than its predecessor. The lugs are now more tapered and refined, giving the watch a more modern profile while retaining the iconic Submariner silhouette. The bracelet has also been widened to 21mm (up from 20mm) to better balance the proportions. The result is a watch that looks larger on the spec sheet but feels familiar on the wrist—a testament to Rolex's design prowess.

Visual Cues: Spotting the Difference

For those with an eagle eye, the 124060 can be distinguished from the 114060 by a subtle detail at the 6 o'clock position on the dial. Between the words "Swiss Made," Rolex has added a small crown logo. This marker indicates the presence of the new-generation movement and serves as a quick identifier for the latest model. Other than this, the design remains true to the Submariner's heritage: a unidirectional rotating bezel with a scratch-resistant ceramic insert, a deep black dial with applied hour markers in white gold filled with Chromalight lume, and the iconic Mercedes hour hand.

Enhanced Wearability and Practical Features

The 124060 comes on the familiar Oyster bracelet, but it now features the Glidelock extension system, which allows for fine adjustments to the bracelet length without the need for tools. This is particularly useful for divers who may need to wear the watch over a wetsuit or for anyone who wants a perfect fit throughout the day. The bracelet is brushed on top for a satin finish, while the sides are polished, striking a balance between sporty and elegant. With a water resistance of 300 meters, the Submariner remains a true diver's tool, and the case is crafted from Oystersteel, Rolex's proprietary 904L steel that offers superior corrosion resistance and a bright finish.

Comparing the 124060 and 114060: A Side-by-Side

When placed next to each other, the differences between the two references become more apparent. The 124060's lugs are slimmer, and the case appears slightly larger, but the watch's overall presence on the wrist is remarkably similar. The movement upgrade is the most compelling reason to consider the new model, as the Caliber 3230's extended power reserve and enhanced accuracy are tangible benefits for everyday wear. If you already own a 114060, the upgrade may not be essential, but for those entering the Submariner world, the 124060 is undeniably the more advanced and refined choice.

Investment and Availability

As with all Rolex sports models, the 124060 is in high demand and often waitlisted at authorized dealers. Its release has also had an impact on the secondary market, with the 114060's value remaining strong but the 124060 commanding a premium. For collectors, the 124060 represents the latest chapter in the Submariner's storied history, and its long-term appreciation potential is promising. Whether you're a first-time buyer or a seasoned collector, the 124060 is a worthy addition to any watch collection—a perfect blend of tradition and innovation.