Universal Genève in China: Classic Watch

Quick Questions

Why was Universal Genève called 'International' in China?
What made steel watches so popular in 1970s China?
How did Universal Genève rank against Rolex in China?
Which Universal Genève models are considered timeless classics?
Is Universal Genève still a coveted brand among collectors today?

Today, we take a closer look at Universal Genève, a brand with a rich history that resonates deeply in China. Its journey began at the dawn of the People's Republic, when gold restrictions forced watchmakers to focus on steel timepieces. This turned steel watches into a sensation, with Universal and Rolex leading the charge.

Interestingly, Universal wasn't always known by its current name in China. Initially, it was called 'International,' reflecting its global appeal. By the 1970s, it was ranked among Switzerland's premier wristwatch brands, sharing the top tier with Rolex. When older generations mention 'International,' they're often referring to Universal, a name that still carries weight today.

Universal is renowned for its masculine designs, earning a reputation as a very 'manly' brand. Its popularity in China has only grown, thanks to several iconic collections that I'll introduce below.

Portugieser Series: IWC Portuguese IW371446 (Portugieser Blue Hand)

The Portuguese chronograph series is both functional and aesthetically pleasing, exuding calm elegance—a favorite among celebrities. With a 40.9mm case and 12.6mm thickness, this steel timepiece features a silver-plated dial with blued steel hands, ensuring high visibility. The chronograph subdials at 12 and 6 o'clock offer a clean layout, while the dark blue alligator strap adds a touch of sophistication. Powered by Calibre 79350, it boasts a 44-hour power reserve.

Portugieser 7: IWC Portuguese IW500107

This model is another standout, equipped with the in-house Calibre 51011, which delivers an impressive 168-hour power reserve when fully wound—hence the name 'Portugieser 7.' The 42.3mm stainless steel case pairs with blued hands and Arabic numerals against a silver-plated dial, complemented by a dark blue crocodile strap for understated class.

Portofino Series: IWC Portofino IW356501

The Portofino line is a hallmark of the brand, and the IW356501 is a quintessential entry-level dress watch. Its stainless steel case houses a silver-plated dial with willow-leaf hands and applied Roman numerals, creating a layered aesthetic. The date window at 3 o'clock and the distinctive red '60' at 12 o'clock have earned it the nickname 'Red 60.'

Pilot Series: IWC Pilot's Watch IW377714 (Little Prince Special Edition)

This special edition stands out with its navy blue dial and the engraved Little Prince on the case back, complete with a coat and sword. White hands and markers contrast beautifully against the blue, with three subdials on the left and a date disc on the right. The Calibre 79320 provides a 44-hour power reserve.

These are just a few of the classic collections from Universal Genève, each with its own story. If you're exploring Swiss watch heritage, these models are a great starting point.