Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar: A Hands-On Review

Initial Impressions

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is a new release that feels like it has been part of the collection for years. It brings together several signature Roger Dubuis elements, most notably the biretrograde format that has been a hallmark of the brand since its inception. Following the debut of the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar last year, the perpetual version was anticipated, and it has arrived without a long wait.

Design-wise, this watch is unmistakably Roger Dubuis. While the brand has shown nods to its heritage with models like the Hommage La Placide, the Excalibur line continues to champion a bolder, more flamboyant interpretation of haute horlogerie, albeit in a more wearable size. The design is polarizing, which may be a strength—it appeals to those who appreciate traditional watchmaking but crave something less conventional. Inside and out, there is much to admire here.

Priced at US9,000, it sits alongside other Geneva-made perpetual calendars from Piaget and Vacheron Constantin. However, the 188 buyers of this limited edition are unlikely to cross-shop such distinct designs. It may not convert newcomers on value alone, but the tactile experience of a Roger Dubuis is hard to replicate elsewhere.

Lavishly Layered Dial

The dial is a feast for the eyes, featuring four large inlays of “Astral Blue” mother-of-pearl on the flange, day and date scales, month disc, and moon phase indicator. The muted blue blends seamlessly, though prominent gold markings cover much of the texture. The moon phase indicator is particularly striking, with a laser-engraved 18k pink gold moon disc set against aventurine glass, resembling a storm cloud.

Beyond the exotic materials, the exposed snail cams for the day and date are beautifully finished, befitting their prominent position. The execution quality is a significant leap over Roger Dubuis’s first biretrograde perpetual calendar, developed with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht for Harry Winston in the early 1990s. The racks and cams now pivot in jeweled bearings, supported by bridges with polished bevels and wide countersinks—an aesthetic upgrade that also enhances reliability.

Roger Dubuis remains a leading proponent of the Poinçon de Genève, alongside Vacheron Constantin. The Geneva Seal is proudly displayed above the moon phase aperture, a nod to the brand’s heritage.

Case and Wearability

The substantial 18k pink gold case has been downsized to 40mm but retains its character and 100m water resistance, instilling confidence in its robustness. It wears larger than its dimensions suggest, though it is only fractionally bigger than the Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar ref. 6159G—less than 1mm in any direction.

The most contentious feature is the third lug, which limits strap options to proprietary quick-change straps. However, the system makes swapping straps effortless. The case is thoughtfully detailed with a deeply engraved crown and four symmetrical correctors for the calendar and moon phase. On the right side, the month and moon phase correctors flank the crown, initially resembling crown guard bolts. The serrated bezel matches the turret-like engraving on the crown.

Movement: Tradition Upgraded

Most modern automatic movements are designed for central seconds, but the new RD850 calibre follows an older tradition with a conventional gear train placing the fourth wheel at six o’clock. The movement is industrial-haute horlogerie, comparable to offerings from Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. Machine finishing is followed by hand decoration, resulting in higher quality than early Roger Dubuis pieces.

Notice the machine-engraved text throughout the movement—the “RD850” designation and other markings are exceptionally clear, even replicating the brand’s corporate typeface. The elegant script on the ring spacer is legible enough to read the brand’s manifesto: “This is a watch of today, inspired by but not bound to the past, which looks ahead to a future that belongs to us.”

The Geneva Seal requirements are easily met, and small details are well executed. For instance, the polished tips of locating pins at the foot of each bridge uniformly reflect light, illustrating their mirror polish.

The perpetual calendar module has been revised for improved reliability, with robust racks and cams visible on the dial. It operates on traditional principles, with a “grand lever” mechanism and push-pin correctors. The setting sequence is nuanced: adjust the date and day to the previous day, then walk them forward using the hands. As with most perpetual calendars, avoid adjusting during the “dead zone” between 8PM and 1AM to prevent damage.

Despite its traditional roots, the movement offers a modern 60-hour power reserve, likely thanks to the diamond-coated silicon escape wheel introduced in 2023.

Key Facts and Price

Reference: DBEX1178
Diameter: 40mm
Height: 12.25mm
Material: 18k pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100m
Movement: Calibre RD850, automatic
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar with retrograde day and date, moon phase
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Calf leather with 18k pink gold folding clasp
Limited edition: 188 pieces
Availability: Exclusively at Roger Dubuis boutiques
Price: US9,000 excluding taxes