Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2TV: A New Era of Mechanical Expression

A Decade of Innovation: The FB 2TV Arrives

Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has entered its second decade under the stewardship of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. The brand's latest release, the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, inaugurates the Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. This timepiece evolves FB's signature chain-and-fusee architecture, introducing a zero-reset seconds function and a flying tourbillon, while inverting the movement to showcase its mechanical complexity on the dial side.

Since its relaunch in 2016, FB has consistently delivered exceptional craftsmanship, with each watch requiring over 300 hours of decoration. The FB 2TV continues this tradition, offering a more expressive style that appeals to connoisseurs of high-end watchmaking.

Design Philosophy: Form Follows Function

Ferdinand Berthoud, the 18th-century horologist, approached watchmaking with a scientist's mindset, prioritizing function over form. This ethos is evident in the FB 2TV's layout, which feels more like an exhibition of components than a conventional dial. The chain-and-fusee, flying tourbillon, and oversized cone for the power reserve are prominently displayed, echoing the experimental spirit of Berthoud's era.

The dial features an arc-shaped hour window, a nod to historical Berthoud pieces. While some may find the composition quirky, it reinforces the brand's commitment to authenticity and mechanical transparency.

The Chain and Fusee: A Masterclass in Precision

The chain-and-fusee mechanism is a hallmark of FB, delivering constant torque to the escapement. The FB 2TV's chain comprises 465 stamped links and 311 pins, measuring 279 mm in length—nearly double that of A. Lange & Söhne's Pour le Merite watches. It employs a differential system for maintaining power, similar to Lange's pioneering design, resulting in a tactile and satisfying winding experience.

Compared to earlier FB models, the FB 2TV requires ten fewer crown turns for full winding, enhancing user convenience without compromising the traditional feel.

Flying Tourbillon: A New Frontier

The flying tourbillon is a first for FB, and its dial-side placement allows for easy appreciation of its intricate construction. The three-armed cage houses a massive 11.2 mm free-sprung balance wheel with an overcoil hairspring. The cage is terraced to accommodate the overcoil, a detail reminiscent of historical tourbillons, adding elegance to the assembly.

Mounted on a modular plate, the tourbillon can be easily removed for servicing. The hand-frosted German silver backdrop enhances contrast, a feature often lacking in other tourbillons.

Zero-Reset Seconds: Practical Precision

The small instrument-like dial at the top features the brand's signature typography and hands. A pusher in the crown resets the seconds hand to zero, facilitating precise time-setting or timing intervals up to 60 seconds. This function, highlighted by the 'Mesure du Temps' name, adds interactivity to the wearing experience.

The scythe-like reset hammer and open-worked snail cam, both black-polished steel, are visible through the case back, surrounded by a large ring gear from the motion works.

Case and Wearability

The 44 mm round case, similar to the FB 2RE, is 15.46 mm thick. Its bolted lugs and screwed crown guards give it a steampunk aesthetic, beautifully executed. The case lacks the side observation windows of predecessors, as the inverted chain-and-fusee is now visible on the dial side. Currently offered in Fairmined 18k white gold, the watch is substantial on the wrist, befitting its stature.

Exquisite Finishing

The FB 2TV's finishing is top-tier, with a hand-sandblasted German silver dial plate that glows, bordered by precise bevels. The steelwork on the fusee cone is expertly done. The case back reveals a complex bridge configuration with circular jewels and gold chatons, all meticulously finished.

Each FB 2TV undergoes COSC certification, underscoring FB's commitment to precision, a value championed by Berthoud himself.

Buying Tips and Authenticity

For collectors seeking a unique timepiece, the FB 2TV offers exceptional mechanical interest and finishing. Its limited production ensures exclusivity. When purchasing, verify the watch's provenance and authenticity through authorized dealers or reputable platforms. Given its complexity, servicing should be performed by certified specialists to maintain performance.

As with any high-end independent, the FB 2TV's value is likely to appreciate, making it a worthy investment for enthusiasts.