Young Collector's Patek, Rolex &

Quick Questions

What drives a young collector to choose Patek Philippe over Rolex for sports watches?
How does the Aquanaut 5164A compare to the Nautilus for everyday wear?
Why prefer a manual-winding chronograph like the 5172G in modern times?
Is the Nautilus 5740's lighter blue dial a game-changer for perpetual calendars?
What makes independent brands like Zenith and Parmigiani stand out to a connoisseur?

In the realm of haute horlogerie, assembling a collection is often a reflection of one's character and evolving tastes. For a discerning young enthusiast known as Lekkinkai, the path has been marked by thoughtful acquisitions that blend horological depth with everyday functionality. This narrative delves into his selection of Patek Philippe, Rolex, and lesser-known independent marques, offering insights for those navigating similar collecting journeys.

Patek Philippe: A Trio of Versatility

Lekkinkai's first foray into Patek was not immediate, as Omega and Rolex initially captured his attention. However, the sports-oriented models, particularly the Nautilus and Aquanaut, eventually drew him in. His collection now features three distinct references: the Aquanaut 5164A, the Chronograph 5172G, and the Nautilus 5740, each showcasing a different facet of the brand's expertise.

Choosing the Aquanaut 5164A over the Nautilus was a deliberate decision. The rubber strap offered superior comfort and versatility, making it suitable for a wide range of settings. The travel time complication, coupled with a gradient black-brown dial, provided a perfect mix of sophistication and practicality. He also enjoys experimenting with different straps, having fitted a misty blue rubber variant that complements the dial's shifting hues.

The 5172G chronograph represents his appreciation for mechanical artistry. Its manual-winding movement is fully exposed, a departure from the Lemania-based 5070 that preceded it. While some debate the finishing, Lekkinkai is captivated by the intricate mechanics. The dial, featuring two subdials and syringe hands, strikes an elegant balance between formal and casual, appealing to a younger demographic.

Returning to the Nautilus line, he opted for the 5740 perpetual calendar. The lighter, more translucent blue dial stood out, softening the complexity of the calendar function and achieving a harmonious blend of luxury and sportiness.

Rolex: Day-Date and Oysterflex Daytona

Within his Rolex portfolio, the Day-Date is seen as the quintessential Rolex—a precious metal timepiece with a versatile dial and practical complications. It embodies a sense of legacy, perfect for passing down through generations. The Oysterflex Daytona in 'Cement Grey' was chosen for its comfort and understated elegance, with a monochromatic palette that keeps it refined without being ostentatious.

Rubber Straps: Patek vs. Rolex

Having tested numerous rubber straps, Lekkinkai prefers Patek's design. He finds Rolex's Oysterflex less comfortable due to its internal inserts, whereas Patek's straps are more ergonomic and reasonably priced. This preference highlights his focus on daily wearability and comfort.

Zenith DEFY Skyline: An Impulse with Substance

The Zenith DEFY Skyline, featuring a cream dial and dark green rubber strap, was an unplanned acquisition inspired by a Taiwanese blogger's review. The allure lay in the El Primero 3620 high-frequency movement, used here in a non-chronograph context with a 1/10-second subdial. While it bears a resemblance to Audemars Piguet, Zenith's distinct identity, including the in-house movement and quick-release bracelet, sets it apart.

Hublot Classic Fusion: Sentimental Value

His first brand-new Swiss luxury watch was the full-gold Hublot Classic Fusion. Initially drawn to the bold Big Bang, he found it too flashy, but the Classic Fusion with a blue dial and rose gold case struck the right chord. It holds sentimental value, carrying memories from his student days, making it more than just a timepiece.

On Resale Value and Market Fluctuations

Initially, Lekkinkai didn't consider depreciation, but he now acknowledges its importance. However, he believes that if you genuinely love a watch and acquire it at a fair price, any potential loss is acceptable. Personal enjoyment should outweigh financial considerations.

Aspiring Audemars Piguet: The Royal Oak

He continues to covet Audemars Piguet, particularly the Royal Oak Jumbo with a gradient dial and the openworked double-balance wheel model. The skeletonized movement is visually striking, and he admits that sometimes the watches we dream about aren't the ones we end up buying, but the aspiration remains.

Parmigiani TORIC: Simplicity with Hidden Complexity

The Parmigiani TORIC perpetual calendar is a study in understatement. He praises the brand's new design direction under its CEO, which emphasizes clean aesthetics while concealing complex functions. The dial features a grain texture that plays with light, and the double bezel is a signature detail. The movement, with rose gold bridges, pays homage to founder Michel Parmigiani's restoration expertise, and the calfskin strap adds a touch of luxury.

Why a Perpetual Calendar?

He chose the perpetual calendar over a simpler model because its dial layout—with subdials at 3 and 9—could easily be mistaken for a chronograph, yet it's a sophisticated calendar. The readability is exceptional, making the complexity accessible.

KURONO TOKYO: An Accessible Independent

His most niche piece is a KURONO TOKYO with a meteorite dial, from Hajime Asaoka's sub-brand. Asaoka's main line is highly limited, but KURONO TOKYO offers his design language at a more accessible price. Meteorite dials are rare, with Rolex being a notable example but at a premium. At around $1,000, this watch offers great value for the unique material.

Future Collection Direction

Lekkinkai's collection philosophy remains consistent: he values 'playability'—whether in movement architecture, finishing, or dial materials—and versatility across occasions. He's now considering complications like a rattrapante chronograph and a tourbillon, with the Daniel Roth tourbillon on his radar.

As he continues to refine his collection, it's clear that for Lekkinkai, watches are not just investments but companions that reflect his personality and journey.