Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Retrograde

Quick Questions

What makes the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Retrograde Calendar a standout in the luxury sports watch category?
How does the double retrograde complication differ from traditional chronograph movements?
Is the RD840 caliber truly a masterpiece of haute horlogerie?
Why is the Geneva Seal so coveted among serious collectors?
Does the Excalibur Double Retrograde offer better value than its rivals in the 300K price range?

The arrival of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Retrograde Calendar has shaken up the high-end sports watch market. Priced at 349,500 RMB, this is the first steel bracelet model in the Excalibur line, and it brings a level of mechanical sophistication rarely seen at this price point. Instead of the usual chronograph, this watch presents a double retrograde display—a complication that instantly sets it apart from the crowd.

The Allure of Retrograde

Retrograde hands are a hallmark of fine watchmaking, moving along an arc before snapping back to their starting point. Roger Dubuis has long been a master of this art, with roots tracing back to the late 1980s when the founder collaborated with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht on a double retrograde perpetual calendar for Harry Winston. That innovation challenged the conventional circular subdial layout and paved the way for the brand's signature style. When Roger Dubuis founded his own maison in 1995, he incorporated double retrograde into the Hommage and Sympathie collections, which are now prized by collectors.

Inside the RD840 Caliber

Powering this new Excalibur is the in-house RD840 movement, sharing architecture with the Knights of the Round Table series. This caliber is one of the few to carry the Geneva Seal, a mark of excellence adhered to by only a handful of manufacturers, including Vacheron Constantin. The RD840 introduces two key innovations: a spiral spring mounted directly on the retrograde gear for enhanced reliability, and a redesigned snail cam that ensures smoother, more accurate jumps. Every component is hand-finished using 14 distinct techniques, from anglage to mirror polishing, making the movement a visual spectacle on the dial.

Design and Comfort

The 40mm steel case is perfectly proportioned for modern tastes, featuring the iconic Excalibur elements: three-pronged lugs, a coin-edge bezel, and faceted sides. The polished and brushed surfaces create a dynamic interplay of light. The dial, with its deep 'Cosmic Blue' hue, is a seven-layer construction that reveals the intricate retrograde mechanics through skeletonization. The integrated steel bracelet is comfortable and secure, with a quick-release system that simplifies strap changes.

Value Proposition

At its price, the Excalibur Double Retrograde Calendar is an exceptional entry into high complications. It undercuts many entry-level Roger Dubuis models, like the Lamborghini Squadra, while offering a unique complication that is both practical and conversation-worthy. In the crowded 300K segment, where chronographs are common, this watch delivers something different—a day-date retrograde that is as wearable as it is impressive. For those seeking a steel sports watch with true horological depth, the Excalibur Double Retrograde Calendar is a compelling choice.